Cosmetic & Skin

Scenesse · Melanotan I Analog

An FDA-approved alpha-MSH analog for erythropoietic protoporphyria, a rare disorder of extreme sun sensitivity. Distinct from and far less risky than Melanotan II.

Alpha-MSH AnalogFDA Approved October 2019 (Scenesse, 16mg implant, EPP phototoxicity); EMA authorised December 2014

Copper Tripeptide · Gly-His-Lys-Cu²⁺

In your blood since birth. Declining since 30. Search volume up 1,016% year-over-year.

Regenerative / Cosmetic / Gene-RegulatoryNot FDA drug-approved for any indication. Legal as a cosmetic ingredient (INCI copper tripeptide-1) under MoCRA; injectable is unapproved.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-3

A synthetic acetylated hexapeptide that mimics the N-terminal end of the SNAP-25 protein and, in vitro, competitively interferes with SNARE-complex assembly, marketed topically as a 'botox in a jar' alternative. In practice it is a legal cosmetic ingredient (INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) with modest, manufacturer-favorable evidence for reducing the appearance of expression lines and a well-documented skin-penetration problem.

Cosmetic / Expression LinesNot FDA-approved as a drug; permitted for use as a cosmetic ingredient (INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8). The US does not pre-approve cosmetic ingredients, so 'approved cosmetic ingredient' overstates its status. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel assessed Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Amide as safe as used in cosmetics.

Gly-Pro-Hyp · Oral Collagen

A purified low-molecular-weight fraction of hydrolyzed collagen enriched in the Gly-Pro-Hyp tripeptide, taken orally for skin and joint support. Small RCTs report gains in hydration, elasticity, and wrinkles, but a 2025 meta-analysis found those benefits concentrated in industry-funded and low-quality trials and non-significant in high-quality independent studies, and the digested-to-amino-acids versus bioactive-signaling question remains unresolved.

Oral CollagenNot FDA-approved as a drug; marketed as a food ingredient / dietary supplement. Hydrolyzed collagen is generally treated as a conventional food protein, but 'GRAS / approved' overstates a specific FDA determination for collagen tripeptide; the accurate status is an unapproved (for any disease claim) food ingredient sold under DSHEA, not an FDA-approved product.

GHK-Cu + BPC-157 + TB-500 skin-and-healing blend

Cosmetic and healing blend

Informal multi-peptide blend (copper tripeptide plus two repair peptides)None of the three ingredients is an FDA-approved drug. In late 2023 the FDA put BPC-157 and TB-500 on a restricted list (Category 2) that blocks pharmacies from compounding them. Most product sold is labeled research-use-only, not for human use.

GLOW blend plus KPV anti-inflammatory tripeptide

Skin, healing, and anti-inflammation blend

Informal multi-peptide blend (GLOW plus an anti-inflammatory tripeptide)No ingredient in KLOW is an FDA-approved drug. BPC-157 and TB-500 were placed on the FDA restricted compounding list in late 2023. KPV and GHK-Cu are not approved drugs either. Almost all product is sold as research-use-only, not for human use.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Sederma)

A widely used synthetic cosmetic peptide (pal-KTTKS) marketed to signal collagen and extracellular-matrix renewal. Human data supporting modest wrinkle improvement come mainly from small manufacturer-sponsored trials; it is a legal cosmetic ingredient, not an FDA-approved drug.

Cosmetic / CollagenNot FDA-approved. Cosmetics and their ingredients require no FDA premarket approval (only color additives do); Matrixyl is a legally marketed cosmetic ingredient regulated post-market, not an approved drug.

Rigin · GQPR Lipopeptide

A palmitoylated tetrapeptide that lowers pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-8) in skin, a complementary mechanism to collagen-stimulating peptides like Matrixyl.

Cosmetic / Anti-InflammatoryNot FDA-approved; cosmetic ingredients require no FDA pre-market approval (only color additives do). It is a legally marketed topical cosmetic ingredient reviewed by the CIR Expert Panel (2018) as safe at typical use levels under 10 ppm, and permitted for cosmetic use in the EU under Regulation 1223/2009.

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

A topical cosmetic peptide (INCI Acetyl Octapeptide-3), marketed as SNAP-8 and developed as an eight-residue elongation of Argireline, designed to mimic SNAP-25 and competitively dampen SNARE-mediated muscle contraction; efficacy rests mainly on supplier panels rather than independent trials.

Cosmetic / NeuromodulatorNot FDA-approved as a drug; used only as a cosmetic ingredient. Cosmetic ingredients are not premarket-approved by FDA, and any claim to affect muscle structure or function would fall outside cosmetic status. Permitted for cosmetic use in the EU under CosIng (Regulation EC 1223/2009) as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent.

Alpha-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone

The endogenous 13-amino-acid melanocortin hormone cleaved from pro-opiomelanocortin, with well-characterized MC1R-mediated pigmentation and anti-inflammatory activity in preclinical models; it is the parent scaffold of the approved analog afamelanotide (Scenesse) and of Melanotan and PT-141, while the native peptide itself remains a research peptide with no approved product and no human efficacy trials.

Melanocortin / Anti-InflammatoryNo approved product for native alpha-MSH; sold as a research peptide only. The synthetic analog afamelanotide (Scenesse) is FDA-approved (October 2019) for erythropoietic protoporphyria, and the analog bremelanotide (Vyleesi) is FDA-approved for HSDD; these are separate compounds.

Afamelanotide Precursor / Linear MSH Analog

The linear alpha-MSH analog [Nle4-D-Phe7]-alpha-MSH, which is the same molecule that Clinuvel developed into the FDA- and EMA-approved implant Scenesse (afamelanotide) for erythropoietic protoporphyria. The version sold on the gray market as 'Melanotan 1' for cosmetic tanning is unapproved, illegal to supply in the UK, EU, and Australia, and is associated in case reports with mole changes and melanoma.

Alpha-MSH Analog / TanningSame molecule is FDA approved as Scenesse (afamelanotide) since Oct 2019 for erythropoietic protoporphyria; the gray-market injectable sold as 'Melanotan 1' for tanning is unapproved and not legally marketed for that use

MT-II / Cyclic MSH Analog

The "Barbie drug." Tanning and libido. Multiple FDA warnings. Huge gray market.

Tanning / Sexual HealthNot approved; FDA warning letter to Melanocorp (2007) and later felony conviction plus debarment of a supplier (Manookian, 2016)